Laying great pavers

1. The first step is to know the exact dimensions of the paving required.
Using string or chalk mark out the area to be paved and then transfer the dimensions to your plan. Determining the area to be paved is as simple as multiplying the length by the width. Break irregular shaped areas into smaller, regular shapes, calculate the area of each and then add together for your total area.
TIP: Keep in mind storm water, drainage and electrical work that may need to run underneath the paved area and mark these onto the plan.

2. Make a checklist of the tools and material you’ll need.

3. Estimating the materials you’ll need.
A base layer of GAP 40 should be laid across the whole area to a total depth of between 100 – 150mm for driveways and 50 – 80mm for pathways.

BOTTOM LAYER: GAP 40 or similar
1 cubic metre will cover 9m2 when compacted to 100mm
1 cubic metre will cover 18m2 when compacted to 50mm

MIDDLE LAYER: Bedding Sand
The next step is to lay bedding sand evenly over the area to a depth of 40mm. 1 cubic metre will cover approximately 20m2 to a depth of 40mm.

TOP LAYER: Paver Joint Filling Sand
When you lay pavers it is recommended you leave a 2 – 3 mm gap in between pavers, Joint fill sand is swept into the gaps. A 20kg bag should cover between 20-30m2 at the recommended 2 – 3mm gap.

RESTRAINING EDGE: Pre-bagged Cement and Sand Mix
To keep all pavers securely in place you will need to make concrete restraints around the edge of your pavers. You can easily make this with a mix of concrete blend and cement. 1 cubic metre of concrete will cover 20 linear metres of restraint and 6 bags of cement are needed to make 1 cubic metre of concrete.

4. Preparing the Ground.

• Decide the desired finished surface level
• Drive four stakes in the ground at the corners of the area to be paved and run string lines between them at the finished surface level.
• Use a string line level to level the strings
• Remove all grass form area to be paved
• Excavate the ground to the required depth. The ground must be even.
• Compact or replace soft spots in the ground.
• Spread and compact GAP 40.

Rain water must flow off the finished paving and away from buildings. Paving should slope approve 15mm per metre to achieve this. If the paving is against the side of a house, the pavers must be no less than 100mm below the finished floor level and clear of any weep holes.

Check evenness and depth of the base by measuring from the string line. The finished surface of the pavers may be at or above ground level.

NOTE: NZ Standards NZ3604, requires the pavers to be a minimum of 100mm below the internal concrete floor for brick houses and 150mm for all other claddings. For more detail see your Local Building Consents Authority.

5. GAP 40 and Bedding Sand.
Fill the base of the excavated area with GAP 40 to a depth of 100 – 150mm compacting every 50mm. Compacting GAP 40 is key to a strong pavement finish. Vibrating plate compactors can be hired by the day.

• For vehicular traffic, high rainfall and poorly drained areas:
  50mm paver
  40mm washed sand
  100 – 150mm GAP 40
• For foot traffic on well drained soil:
  40mm paver
  40mm washed sand
  50mm minimum GAP 40
  

6. Spreading the sand
Spread the sand over the area with a rake to a depth of 40mm. Place screeding rails in position ensuring the top of the rails are at the correct level. Pull the screeding board over the screeding rails to obtain a level surface. Remove the rail and fill the ruts left with sand and mover the rails to the next section.

7. Laying the pavers
Determine the average width of the pavers by placing 20 tightly side by side and measure the overall width. Divide this by 20 and add 3mm to this average paver width to allow for gaps.

TIP: You can purchase plastic ties or paver spacer lugs to keep pavers apart.

Brick sized pavers work well for an informal appearance and are great for curves. Large format pavers provide a more formal look and are more suited to square or rectangular areas.

Set up a sting line where the first paver is to be located, measure along the string line the distance you’ll be paving using the average width plus 3mm gap and establish two key pavers. Alternatively you can place a grid of string lines based on the final dimensions at regular intervals.

Lay pavers in your pattern of choice. Always allow 3mm between pavers. Position strings to opposing key pavers over the whole area. Use this grid as a guide to lay your pattern to.

Cut pavers for edges when the interior is laid. Use bolsters, hire a paver splitter or use a brick saw for the neatest cut.

8. Edge Restraints
These are essential to prevent movement of the pavers and sand. The restraints should be approximately 10mm below the uncompacted pavers to allow for a final compaction. Restraints can be made of treated timber or concrete.

9. Compacting and Jointing
When the pavers and edge restraints are in place, sweep the jointing sand (dry) over the compacted area until all gaps are filled.

• Do not mix the cement with the jointing sand as this can stain the paver surface
• For smaller jobs, pavers can be compacted with a rubber mallet and a piece of timber
  
• For larger jobs use a vibrating plate compactor. Use plywood or a carpet mat to protect the pavers.
• Paving should compact about 10mm. Top up gaps with sand if required.
  

TIPS FOR LAYING LARGE FORMAT PAVERS

Large format pavers have special laying requirements to ensure best results are achieved,

1. The grain of large format pavers must be laid the same way, which is width adjoining width. Date stamps on the side of the paver can be a great indicator.
2. When laying on GAP 40 and sand, the gap should not exceed 3mm.

TIP: Think about laying the pavers with pebbles or mondo grass around each paver.